The orchid family (Orchidaceae) is a huge group that has epiphytic, lithophytic and terrestrial members. Although most orchids don't grow from cuttings, some members of the genus Dendrobium will produce new plants from stem cuttings. The Noble Dendrobium (Dendrobium nobile), resistant in the USA. UU.
Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11 are one such species. Grown as an indoor plant, it offers an impressive display of flowers from late winter to early summer. Most people are familiar with the idea of propagating plants from cuttings; however, not all orchids can be propagated from a cutting. Orchids that you can propagate in this way include Ascocentrum, Dendrobium, Vanda, and Ludisia.
This is my preferred method and probably the simplest method for propagating orchids. First, identify which stem to cut. Must be thick, healthy, at least 10 inches tall, and have a good attached aerial root system. Cut the stem near the base of the orchid and just above a leaf knot or joint.
This will allow a new orchid to continue growing from the trimmed stem. To start an orchid from a cutting, prepare a rooting tray and an area with temperatures between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (23.9 to 29.4 degrees Celsius). Once the flowers die, cut off the stems one foot long from the mother plants. Cut them into 3-node sections.
Place the stems in the rooting tray and spray every 2 weeks for 2 months. Once the roots appear, cut the stems before potting. Once all the flowers have fallen from your exquisite orchid, cut off the stems one foot long or longer from the mother plant. Cut each of the stems into 3 sections.
You can choose from 1200 genera of dendrobium orchids divided into two types, deciduous and perennial plants. After a mature orchid plant has grown and blossomed for several years, the beginner discovers that the plant is too large for the size of the pot it is growing in, and is faced with two options. You can transplant the plant into a larger container or you can divide the plant into two or more separate individuals. If the plant has only one track (i.e., new growth), it can be divided by cutting the plant into groups of three or four pseudobulbs.
The front group with the lead pseudobulb would be known as a division. The other group or groups of pseudobulbs without active lead would be called retrobulbs. If a plant has several branches, it can be divided in such a way that there are one or more divisions and one or more subsequent bulbs. In other words, a division is a group of pseudobulbs that contain an active lead or new growth after the plant decomposes; whereas posterior bulbs are a group of old pseudobulbs that have no active lead, but in which there are one or more dormant eyes that can be forced to actively grow.
Figure A shows the arrangement of the rhizomes and pseudobulbs of a Cattleya plant with a single branch. Such a plant can be divided by cutting off the rhizomes or the rhizome at the point indicated by the letter x. This will produce a split and two rear bulbs as indicated. In Figure B, a multi-wire Cattleya plant is cut as indicated, producing three divisions and several subsequent bulbs.
Actual rhizome cutting is commonly done after the plant has flowered, but before transplanting. Usually, a V-shaped notch is cut off more than half of the rhizome. So, the plant is not disturbed until the dormant eyes of the posterior bulbs begin to break. As soon as new growths begin, the plant can be removed from its pot, shredded and transplanted.
After the division has been transplanted, the plant should be carefully sprayed, but not watered until root growth becomes quite evident. Plants can be given more water and treated like established plants. To grow orchids from cuttings, start by removing a tall stem from the parent plant. Place this cutting in a moisture-dense environment while you wait for it to grow.
Another way is to separate and transplant the seedlings of larger orchids. Finally, you can cut off the rhizomes of the mature plant. For stem cuttings, you will need a waterproof tray approximately 3 inches deep. Fill it with moist sphagnum moss, wet sand, or a mixture of both.
Then cut a cane at least 10 inches long, cutting it near the base of the orchid and just above a knot, which is a leaf joint. Cut the cane into pieces that hold at least two knots each, and cover the raw ends of the pieces with a powdered antifungal agent such as charcoal, cinnamon or sulfur. After placing the pieces horizontally on the medium in the tray, press them only lightly so that their surfaces are exposed. Wrap the tray in a clear plastic bag and place it in a warm position where it receives bright light but no direct sun.
In about three to four months, some of the cuttings can send new seedlings out of the knots. This product contains materials that allow good drainage and adequate air flow to the orchid roots. While you wait for your orchid clones to sprout, you'll simply unwrap the sphagnum moss around them to check their growth. Not all orchid varieties prefer the same temperature conditions, but common types sold commercially will work well in normal indoor environments.
A healthily flowering orchid in its natural environment receives filtered light for several hours during the day. This is one of the fastest methods for propagating orchids, but it requires special equipment and a sterile environment. In terms of their shape, the flower spikes are pointed and thin, compared to the rounder and thicker roots of the orchid. Place new plants in 2-inch pots using a loose bark orchid, eroded volcanic rock, or sphagnum moss.
Good air circulation is essential to the health of orchids, and they will thrive if placed near a protected window with warm but not hot ventilation. Once the stem segments of the orchids have sprouted small seedlings from the buds, place one in each container, covering the remaining segment of the stem and roots with the potting mix. Some arborists say the deciduous type is easier for beginner orchid growers because those varieties are harder than evergreen ones. The growth process takes a little time, but the thrill of seeing flowers on orchids that you propagated yourself is worth waiting for.
You might think bigger is better when it comes to a container for your orchids, but that's not the case. There is a lot of conflicting information about whether orchids can be grown from cuttings, but the simple answer is yes. You should move orchids to larger pots before they get tied to the roots, but your new pots should only be slightly larger than your previous pots. Roots are likely to start growing down towards the sphagnum moss in search of nutrients, so it's easier to see the length of the roots.